{"id":166995,"date":"2025-02-28T08:00:06","date_gmt":"2025-02-28T13:00:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/?p=166995"},"modified":"2025-02-22T16:23:55","modified_gmt":"2025-02-22T21:23:55","slug":"sustainabile-booze-bats-fish-butterflies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2025\/02\/sustainabile-booze-bats-fish-butterflies\/","title":{"rendered":"What Do Fish, Butterflies, and Bats Have to Do With Booze?"},"content":{"rendered":"

On January 9th, the Instagram account <\/span>@anytimespritz<\/span><\/a> posted a declaration: \u201c2025 is the year of organic cocktails. Drinking is an Agricultural Act.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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The latter statement is inspired by the words of the farmer and writer, Wendell Berry \u2013 specifically, his essay \u201c<\/span>The Pleasures of Eating<\/span><\/a>,\u201d published in 1989, in which he famously wrote that \u201ceating is an agricultural act.\u201d In the following decades, the farm-to-table movement has championed and codified this understanding of our food systems through <\/span>numerous certifications<\/span><\/a> that aim to help us make more sustainable choices. While many of us have gotten into the habit of seeking out certain symbols and words on food products, we have been slower to adopt this approach to beverages \u2013 especially alcoholic ones.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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In search of sustainable spirits.<\/p>\n

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\u201cThere are few reasons that it\u2019s taken longer for sustainability practice and culture to reach the spirits industry,\u201d explains Shanna Farrell, author of <\/span>A Good Drink: In Pursuit of Sustainable Spirits<\/span><\/i><\/a>. \u201cThe first is that you (often) can\u2019t visit farms that grow the crops that become spirits.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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While this is not the case for wine \u2013 an industry bolstered by enotourism [travel for the purpose of exploring wine regions], with visitors being encouraged to see the grapes up-close \u2013 many kinds of alcohol are subject to a strange separation from consumers. These products are, in fact, deeply rooted in a sense of place that is so much more complex than tidy rows of vineyards, hops, or grains convey at first glance. For this reason, the little labels on bottles of booze can go a long way in facilitating choices that are healthier for us and the planet \u2013 if we take the time to read and understand them.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Soter Vineyards. Photography by Andrea Johnson.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Some broad-reaching sustainability certifications are by now familiar \u2013 most notably the <\/span>United States Department of Agriculture Organic seal<\/span><\/a>, which was developed following the <\/span>Organic Foods Production Act of 1990<\/span><\/a> (on the heels of Berry\u2019s famous essay). Other, newer terms are somewhat intuitive, such as \u201c<\/span>Fish-Friendly<\/span><\/a>\u201d or the more specific \u201c<\/span>Salmon-Safe<\/span><\/a>,\u201d while still others, like \u201c<\/span>Carbon Neutral<\/span><\/a>\u201d or \u201c<\/span>B Corp<\/span><\/a>,\u201d require further study. In deciding which terminology to trust, it’s important to consider how and by whom these certifications are regulated. Ecolabels can be verified by governing bodies at the international, federal, or state level, as well as by independent organizations.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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The first step to sipping more sustainably is simply to acknowledge our drinks as agricultural products. From there, we can begin to consider how the cultivation, transformation, and transportation of their ingredients impacts our land, water, and air, as well as all of the life forms inhabiting these ecosystems.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ram’s Gate Winery. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The wine industry is leading the way when it comes to creating a new correlation between alcohol and aquatic creatures with a more positive connotation than the phrase \u201cto drink like a fish.\u201d <\/span>Ram\u2019s Gate Winery<\/span><\/a> in Sonoma, California is one of more than 2,000 farms that have joined the <\/span>Fish-Friendly Farming Environmental Certification Program<\/span><\/a>, which is regulated by a non-profit organization, the <\/span>California Land Stewardship Institute<\/span><\/a>. Caine Thompson, the winery\u2019s head of sustainability, explains that in order to become certified, \u201cThe farmer must show that they are implementing practices that both restore fish and wildlife habitats and improve water quality.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Outside the Golden State, the <\/span>Salmon-Safe Certification<\/span><\/a> is another great way to verify that farmers are working in harmony with their local waterways. At <\/span>Soter Vineyards<\/span><\/a> in Oregon\u2019s Willamette Valley, Salmon-Safe Certified is just one of the many ecolabels that the farm has earned over the years, along with <\/span>Organic<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>Biodynamic<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>B Corporation<\/span><\/a>, and <\/span>LIVE<\/span><\/a> (Low Input Viticulture and Enology). Soter Vineyards is also <\/span>Bee-Friendly<\/span><\/a> \u2013 according to accreditation by the non-profit <\/span>Pollinator Partnership<\/span><\/a> \u2013 highlighting their holistic approach to caring for creatures that live underwater and up in the air.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Soter Vineyards. Photography by Carolyn Wells.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Soter Vineyards\u2019 viticulturist, Emily Rozga, explains that one of the shared key practices across these various certifications is \u201chabitat maintenance.\u201d This includes leaving some vegetation along the wetlands undisturbed to help regulate water temperatures and planting wildflower meadows for native pollinators, especially <\/span>milkweed for migrating Monarch butterflies<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Some certifications are narrowly focused on certain species, while others aim to be all-encompassing. In 2023, <\/span>Anytime Spritz<\/span><\/a> launched Farmhouse Gin and Farmhouse Vodka as the world\u2019s first and only <\/span>Regenerative Organic Certified<\/span><\/a> spirits. Taylor Lanzet, co-founder of the \u201cfarm-to-can\u201d cocktail company, explains that they don\u2019t prioritize any one species over another. One of their partners in Hudson, New York, <\/span>Breathe Deep Farm<\/span><\/a>, started enacting regenerative organic practices in their fields of wheat and other grains, and is now \u201chome to 122 rare and uncommon plant species, 83 bird species, and 40 butterfly and dragonfly species.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Soter Vineyards. Photography by Josh Chang.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Winged creatures of all sizes play an important role in a balanced, biodiverse ecosystem and, for some crops, can be crucial for cultivation. Perhaps the most striking example of this is seen in the production of tequila. The popular Mexican spirit is made from the agave plant, which depends on bats for pollination. You may notice the term \u201c<\/span>Bat-Friendly<\/span><\/a>\u201d on some sustainable tequila brands, but you should also keep an eye out for the letters \u201c<\/span>ARA<\/span><\/a>,\u201d which stand for Agave Responsable Ambiental (Environmentally Responsible Agave).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mijenta Tequila. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Mijenta<\/span><\/a> is one of the few brands to gain this certification from the <\/span>Tequila Regulatory Council <\/span><\/a>and the <\/span>Government of the State of Jalisco, Mexico<\/span><\/a>. Elise Som, co-founder and director of sustainability at Mijenta, explains that they chose to pursue ARA certification to demonstrate that their agave is \u201cgrown on land that did not suffer deforestation.\u201d Mijenta\u2019s other certifications, including B Corporation by <\/span>B Lab<\/span><\/a> and Carbon Neutral by <\/span>ClimatePartner<\/span><\/a> attest to their \u201cfocus on community support and forest protection, as well as development of clean energy solutions.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Is booze the next frontier for sustainable agriculture?<\/p>\n

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Some sustainability labels in the beverage industry concentrate their attention on the maintenance of crop fields as healthy habitats, while others highlight the preservation of wild landscapes. Marla Hoban, co-founder of the Portland, Oregon-based non-alcoholic beer company <\/span>Roaming Nobles<\/span><\/a> explains that their brand name pays \u201chomage to the noble animals that roam our state and all its beautiful natural spaces.\u201d This connection is celebrated on their beer cans by the appearance of a tree symbol announcing their partnership with the <\/span>Forest Park Conservancy<\/span><\/a>, which cares for one of the United State\u2019s largest urban parks \u2013 a vital habitat for hundreds of species, ranging from black bears to banana slugs, hoary bats, bobcats, and mountain beavers.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mijenta Tequila. Photography submitted.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Your personal bar cart may seem far removed from forests and farmlands, but they are inextricably linked. It\u2019s time we take an ecosystems approach to how we drink. Before you pour, carve out an extra few minutes to assess the labels at your local wine shop, call up your preferred brewer, or get friendly with your bartender. By mindfully choosing our beverages based on sustainability certifications, we can have a positive impact that extends well beyond happy hour.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On January 9th, the Instagram account @anytimespritz posted a declaration: \u201c2025 is the year of organic cocktails. Drinking is an Agricultural Act.\u201d\u00a0   The latter statement is inspired by the words of the farmer and writer, Wendell Berry \u2013 specifically, his essay \u201cThe Pleasures of Eating,\u201d published in 1989, in which he famously wrote that […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1914,"featured_media":167004,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":[33278],"meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33293],"tags":[33273,33302,33085],"article-theme":[33291],"class_list":["post-166995","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-consumption","tag-biodiversity","tag-business","tag-ecosystem","format-article","article-theme-people"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWhat Do Fish, Butterflies, and Bats Have to Do With Booze? - Modern Farmer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"On January 9th, the Instagram account @anytimespritz posted a declaration: \u201c2025 is the year of organic cocktails. 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