{"id":166537,"date":"2024-11-29T10:37:37","date_gmt":"2024-11-29T15:37:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/?p=166537"},"modified":"2024-11-29T10:37:37","modified_gmt":"2024-11-29T15:37:37","slug":"feasting-place-pueblo-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2024\/11\/feasting-place-pueblo-new-mexico\/","title":{"rendered":"Meet the Native American Farmer Promoting Northern New Mexico\u2019s Indigenous Foodways"},"content":{"rendered":"

The aroma of cedar smoke fills the early autumn air, punctuated by the crackle of wood as Norma Naranjo rakes out hot ashes from the horno, a beehive-shaped adobe oven, with a long wooden paddle. She piles the ashes on the ground and tops them with glossy green chiles from her garden; the heat will concentrate their flavor for later use in a stew.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Naranjo is the founder of <\/span>The Feasting Place<\/span><\/a>, a culinary and cultural program based out of her home on the Ohkay Owingeh (\u201cPlace of Strong People\u201d) Pueblo in Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico, thirty minutes north of Santa Fe. A pueblo refers to Native Americans of the Southwest who live in permanent settlements. The Pueblo peoples are largely agrarian in nature.<\/span><\/p>\n

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full_link<\/a><\/p>\n
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LEARN MORE<\/p>\n

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How to build a calorie-dense garden.<\/p>\n

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A Vietnam War veteran and former social worker, Naranjo established The Feasting Place in 2000, motivated by her desire to educate the public about traditional Ohkay foodways and culture. Many of her students are children from local schools and her own and other pueblos, but she also works with tour groups, local hotels, and universities.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u201cHistorically, we were a farming culture,\u201d says Naranjo. \u201cWe grew our own food, we were active. As kids, we\u2019d plant, hoe, and harvest, and go out to irrigate the garden after dinner. What do our kids do now? They\u2019re on their phone or watching TV, and their parents work and get fast food because they have no time to cook.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Corn grown at The Feasting Place. Photos by Laurel Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Naranjo and her husband Hutch cultivate chicos (a type of corn that is dried, steamed, and rehydrated for stews or as a side dish), tomatoes, watermelon, and the <\/span>three sisters<\/span><\/a> (the Native American trinity of squash, corn, and beans, which are grown as symbiotic companion plants; chiles are often referred to as the little sister, as they were introduced with the arrival of the Spaniards). Hutch, who is from the nearby Santa Clara Pueblo, builds hornos for local clients and businesses and raises grassfed Angus beef.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Hutch Naranjo. Photos by Laurel Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On this day, a group of nine students from Colgate University, a prestigious liberal arts college in Hamilton, New York, are taking the first of three cooking classes from Naranjo. The classes are part of the curriculum for an immersive, semester-long off-campus scholar\u2019s program based in Santa Fe. Most are first- or second-generation immigrants and one student is Native American, of Onondaga heritage.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u201cThe participants are first-generation college students who have overcome historical, structural, or personal obstacles in their lives and were able to find their way to Colgate,\u201d says Mark Stern, the program\u2019s academic director. \u201cSanta Fe is unique for our <\/span>off-campus study options<\/span><\/a> because we\u2019ve cultivated relationships of reciprocity with local pueblos, which allows our students to learn with and from Native American scholars who offer perspectives and cosmologies about ideas that challenge the core of, for lack of a better term, Western epistemology.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mark Stern. Photos by Laurel Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Stern learned about the Naranjos from two of the program\u2019s instructors, who are from local pueblos. \u201cNorma and Hutch were highly recommended when I asked who might be able to talk to us about pueblo food,\u201d he says. \u201cMy experience suggests that students don\u2019t want to be staring at screens all day; they want to be learning experientially, and The Feasting Place provides that.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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The first three-hour class begins with Naranjo and her sister, Tomasita Duran, providing a history of the 700-year-old Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo, which has a population of 2,700 members, in addition to 5,000 non-tribal members. At one time, Ohkay was also the state capitol.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Like most of New Mexico\u2019s pueblos, Ohkay generates revenue from its casino, gas stations and other businesses, but some, like the Pojoaque, Picuris, and Taos pueblos, <\/span>raise bison<\/span><\/a> as part of a federal conservation effort that also helps widen the genetic diversity of established herds and provides the pueblos with a traditional food source. When Naranjo teaches youth classes at Pojoaque, she barters classes in exchange for bison meat.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Photos by Laurel Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Naranjo wants The Feasting Place to encourage younger generations on the pueblos to make healthier food choices by returning to a more traditional diet in favor of processed foods; she has even authored a cookbook, <\/span>The Four Sisters: Keeping Family Traditions Alive<\/span><\/i>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u201cAt one point in time, we were ashamed of who we were as native people,\u201d she says. \u201cBut now, you see more of our young people participating in dance and other cultural activities and learning our ways including a return to planting and preparing their own food.\u201d<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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New Mexico is also a tri-cultural state, a merging of Native American, Spanish, and Mexican influences that have parlayed themselves into a distinctive native cuisine that makes use of Indigenous, as well as Old and New World ingredients such as potatoes, corn, chiles, and tomatoes. The Spaniards also introduced wheat to the pueblos, and taught the native peoples to bake using hornos, which are of Moorish origin.<\/span><\/p>\n

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For today\u2019s class, the students are making empanadas filled with peaches and apples from the Naranjo\u2019s trees and Indian tacos made with fry bread. As an appetizer, Norma shows the students how to make and knead dough for what she calls, \u201cpizzas, res-style,\u201d which are cooked in the horno. \u201cYou\u2019re not in New York anymore; this is Indian Country!\u201d she says, eliciting laughs.<\/span><\/p>\n

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After prepping their dough and topping their thin-crusted pizzas with tomatoes, herbs, and other produce from the garden, the group moves outside for an horno demonstration from Hutch. \u201cYou\u2019re learning to bake the way it\u2019s been done for 500 years,\u201d he says, showing them how he builds a pyre of cedar wood, which he collects from Santa Clara Canyon, in the back of the oven.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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The horno needs to be 700 to 800 degrees Fahrenheit to ensure a sufficiently crisp crust; Naranjo uses a rolled-up newspaper as a temperature gauge by thrusting it into the horno, counting to five, and removing it. Its toasty hue tells her the oven is hot enough, so the students take turns cooking their pizzas.<\/span><\/p>\n

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From left: Endre Cattouse, Jatziry Macedo, Rhoman Elvis. Photos by Laurel Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of them, Fausto Flores Alvarez, mentions that the horno is similar to the mud oven his grandmother uses in his native Honduras. His classmate Endr\u00e9 Cattouse, who is Belizean and of Garifuna heritage, compares it to a Garifuna oven, while the empanadas are nearly identical to Belizean patties.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u201cI\u2019m noticing a lot of cultural similarities today,\u201d says Cattouse. \u201cOne of the best things about this program is that we also learn from one another. When we go shopping, we start talking about our favorite snacks or dishes growing up, and then we end up trying new foods. We bond in a different way than we do at school.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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While the pizzas are cooking, some of the students harvest fruit for the empanadas, which will bake in the horno, while others explore the property, admiring the fresh chicos drying on wood-and-wire racks and visiting the resident chickens. Hutch passes around his freshly ground blue masa, which Norma will use for muffins.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Back in the dining room, the students gather to watch Naranjo make fry bread. She eschews measuring and demonstrates the method her grandmother taught her: by feel. \u201cNorma\u2019s hands have all of the information she needs,\u201d says Hutch. \u201cYou lose the feel when you rely on recipes.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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While lard is traditional for pueblo baking, Naranjo uses Crisco (\u201cI buy it by the truckload!\u201d) for classes because it\u2019s suitable for vegetarians and vegans. As she shows how to knead the dough, one of the students asks why she makes Indian tacos\u2014which today will be filled with the Naranjo\u2019s ground beef, beans, and garden produce\u2014due to its associations with colonialism.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Naranjo acknowledges the controversy but explains that the dish is still ubiquitous among pueblo peoples, and enables her to demonstrate a variety of culinary techniques. Also, it tastes good and is symbolic of the Native American <\/span>fight for survival and freedom from oppression<\/span><\/a>. \u201cBut I also believe that we shouldn\u2019t waste our energy on things that happened in the past,\u201d she says. \u201cFocus on the present; that\u2019s how pueblo people are.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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Photos by Laurel Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While the menu isn\u2019t comprised of stereotypically \u201chealthy\u201d dishes, it\u2019s a marked contrast to the heavily processed foods available to most Native American communities, and it is designed to utilize fresh, seasonal produce and meat and provide students with life skills as well as basic mathematics, history, and English (Naranjo often asks her younger students to submit essays describing their class experience).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

After bidding farewell to the students and inviting them to return to hang out around the firepit-\u00a0 Norma will offer this explanation: \u201cThis isn\u2019t just about making money or teaching a class and saying goodbye. Many of our students are far from home and I want them to feel <\/span>at <\/span><\/i>home while they\u2019re in New Mexico. We\u2019ve even had people stay with us. Food brings people together. It doesn\u2019t matter where you\u2019re from.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The aroma of cedar smoke fills the early autumn air, punctuated by the crackle of wood as Norma Naranjo rakes out hot ashes from the horno, a beehive-shaped adobe oven, with a long wooden paddle. She piles the ashes on the ground and tops them with glossy green chiles from her garden; the heat will […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1980,"featured_media":166538,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":[33277],"meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33068],"tags":[33218,33084],"article-theme":[33291],"class_list":["post-166537","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food","tag-culture-heritage","tag-food","format-mtmf","article-theme-people"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMeet the Native American Farmer Promoting Northern New Mexico\u2019s Indigenous Foodways - Modern Farmer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The aroma of cedar smoke fills the early autumn air, punctuated by the crackle of wood as Norma Naranjo rakes out hot ashes from the horno, a\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2024\/11\/feasting-place-pueblo-new-mexico\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Meet the Native American Farmer Promoting Northern New Mexico\u2019s Indigenous Foodways - 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