{"id":163591,"date":"2024-08-06T08:00:57","date_gmt":"2024-08-06T12:00:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/?p=163591"},"modified":"2024-08-30T00:44:07","modified_gmt":"2024-08-30T04:44:07","slug":"meet-the-modern-chef-and-forager-duo-bringing-snails-to-the-menu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2024\/08\/meet-the-modern-chef-and-forager-duo-bringing-snails-to-the-menu\/","title":{"rendered":"Meet the Modern Chef and Forager Duo Bringing Snails to the Menu"},"content":{"rendered":"

They are large for snails, with fully grown shells reaching up to nearly 10 inches. And they\u2019re pretty. Their shells are often splotched with red or orange markings or deep amber striping curving along the tip. But more importantly, they are delicious, simmered with aromatics and served with a light seaweed over a bed of pasta.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

They are <\/span>tulip snails<\/span><\/a>, a mollusk found in the sandy bottoms of shallow pools along the south eastern coast of the US. And while they may not be the typical fare you expect at a swanky seafood restaurant in the US, at <\/span>Seabird<\/span><\/a>, they sit proudly alongside menu classics such as crab, yellowfin tuna and oysters.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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A tulip snail. Photography via Shutterstock\/Brain Lasenby.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Seabird, in Wilmington, NC, is a sustainable seafood place that utilizes foraging to get many of its ingredients\u2014and to act as an opportunity for education. Rather than rely only on farmed fish or wild caught fish that is shipped from ports across the world, Neff tries to work with local food, which can create a bit of uncertainty in the menu. Ordering 50 pounds of swordfish from a distributor is a fairly straightforward process. But with local fishing and foraging, you\u2019re working with a wild population, and you\u2019re not guaranteed to find what you set out for. You\u2019re also limited by the seasonality of the food.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0\u201cI think everybody knows that tomatoes or okra or cabbages are seasonal,\u201d says chef and owner Dean Neff. \u201cBut I don\u2019t know that everyone knows the seasonality of oysters or speckled sea trout. Being able to have conversations about that and about sustainability with seafood was important to us.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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full_link<\/a><\/p>\n

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Read More<\/p>\n

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Meet the coastal farm and forager introducing Oregon to climate cuisine.<\/p>\n

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Neff opened the restaurant in 2021 with his partner, and he started working with foragers to access local ingredients at sustainable levels. That\u2019s when he met Ana Shellem of <\/span>Shell\u2019em Seafood<\/span><\/a>, a coastal forager and sustainable fisher who works along the coastline of Masonboro Island. Shellem began foraging five years ago, after many years of harvesting wild shellfish. As a conservationist, Shellem is careful when and where she harvests, only bringing in what is in season and in small quantities. \u201cWhen you eat wild and in season\u2026I only eat oysters in season, even though with farmed oysters, you can eat them year round. But I think everything is at its finest when it\u2019s in season. Eating a tomato in the winter is not as exciting as eating a tomato in the summer and appreciating the flavor profiles.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dean Neff and Ana Shellem on the water. Photography by Baxter Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Most shellfish seasons have to do with their cycle of breeding and molting, normally coinciding with water temperature. For instance, stone crabs along the east coast are out of season in the summer months, when the crabs will molt, shedding their shells and pumping the warm sea water in and out of their bodies to create new exoskeletons. It\u2019s when the crabs have shed their shells that they can mate, creating nests for their egg sacs. That mating and molting will be done by October, and the season will pick up again then. It\u2019s similar for lobsters. Over the summer, lobsters will migrate into warmer, shallower water to feed and molt, which makes them easier to catch. However, a lobster without its hard shell is trickier to transport, so the peak of lobster season is often earlier in the springtime or in December, before the waters get too cold.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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full_link<\/a><\/p>\n

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Take action<\/p>\n

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Make a commitment to seasonal eating with this seasonal food guide.<\/p>\n

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Each organism in the ocean, just like on land, has a season of rest, regrowth, or stasis, followed by a season of abundance. As consumers, we\u2019re often used to eating strawberries in January or oysters in June. But to truly be aligned with seasonality, Shellem and Neff say, is to widen your palate and embrace other options.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt’s amazing to work with <\/span>James Beard chefs<\/span><\/a> that are educated and able to experiment with obscure things, like the tulip snails that Dean’s been working with, or North Carolina whelks. The seaweeds I get to bring him are really fun, like the <\/span>sea bean<\/span><\/a> or prickly pear cactus,\u201d says Shellem. \u201cI’ll even drop off samples so they can make a staff meal, just to educate their staff as well. It is so much fun to see so many people so passionate about the same thing with the same goal.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

But here\u2019s where it gets tricky. Eating seasonally or prioritizing local foods is not just about trying new things. It\u2019s also about learning what the limitations are and sometimes, living with disappointment. Foragers on land, for instance, will only take a certain number of mushrooms in a patch, to ensure sufficient regrowth. For Shellem, the same principle applies to seafood. She gathers what she needs for her restaurants and leaves the rest to flourish. That can make for an uncomfortable conversation at the dinner table. \u201cWhen we were first opening, we explained to the servers that we\u2019re going to run out of a particular fish tonight, and for some people that gives them anxiety,\u201d says Neff. \u201cBut I think that should make you happy. Because that\u2019s the nature of a sustainable restaurant; supplies are limited. We will be constantly changing.\u201d For Neff, leaning into that change, and getting his customers used to it, is key.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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full_link<\/a><\/p>\n

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Learn more:<\/p>\n

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Curious about the seafood and aquatic habitat in your region?<\/p>\n

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For Shellem, the lesson is more blunt but arguably more widely applicable. \u201cI think if people could be more comfortable with being told \u2018no\u2019 sometimes, that would be awesome.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Dean Neff prepares his catch at Seabird. Photography by Baxter Miller.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As for the tulip snails, Neff says they\u2019ve been popular, and they\u2019ve even had customers come in specifically looking for the snails. \u201cWe had people come all the way from France, not too long ago, and they said their main agenda was to eat at the restaurant,\u201d which Neff concedes is a lot of pressure on one dinner order. However, it also means his message is spreading. \u201cIt meant so much to them to try [an ingredient] so unique that they\u2019ve never had before.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

They are large for snails, with fully grown shells reaching up to nearly 10 inches. And they\u2019re pretty. Their shells are often splotched with red or orange markings or deep amber striping curving along the tip. But more importantly, they are delicious, simmered with aromatics and served with a light seaweed over a bed of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1759,"featured_media":163592,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":[33277],"meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33068],"tags":[33230,33084,33251],"article-theme":[33291],"class_list":["post-163591","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food","tag-aquaculture","tag-food","tag-sustainability","format-mtmf","article-theme-people"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMeet the Modern Chef and Forager Duo Bringing Snails to the Menu - Modern Farmer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"They are large for snails, with fully grown shells reaching up to nearly 10 inches. And they\u2019re pretty. 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