{"id":150440,"date":"2023-10-11T08:00:06","date_gmt":"2023-10-11T12:00:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/?p=150440"},"modified":"2024-08-30T00:48:32","modified_gmt":"2024-08-30T04:48:32","slug":"when-labels-lie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2023\/10\/when-labels-lie\/","title":{"rendered":"When Labels Lie"},"content":{"rendered":"

SweetRoot Farm is pitched squarely in the middle of a long and narrow mountain valley, framed by the Bitterroot Mountains on one side and the Sapphire Mountains on the other. The 10-acre farm outside Hamilton, Montana is run by Noah Jackson and Mary Bricker, who dedicate four irrigated acres of pasture to their laying hens.<\/span><\/p>\n

Customers who buy their eggs at the farmer\u2019s market in downtown Hamilton or who swing through their farm store can pick up a carton with a very simple design. It displays the SweetRoot Farm logo\u2014a beet sticking out of a row of dirt\u2014and the text \u201cPastured eggs. Organic, GMO-free feed and whole grains, moved to fresh pasture regularly. Available for farm pickup at the farmhouse. Noah & Mary.\u201d The label then tells you where to find them by listing their address and phone number.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The label describes their feed, which Jackson has recently started buying from a ranch a few miles north. It emphasizes the use of pasture, sections of which the hens are rotated through every 15 days or so during the summer. The part about the lack of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) in the feed was added after input from customers.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe get a lot of questions about that,\u201d says Jackson. \u201cSo, that’s why we put that additional label on there.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Food labels tell a story through words, images and designs on the packaging and even the size of the font and shades of the colors used. Some of those stories are truthful, and some are certainly less so. For visitors who pull into Jackson\u2019s farm store in Hamilton, what they see on their egg label matches what they see on the farm\u2014right down to the beet leaves popping out of the earth. But when consumers can\u2019t see the source for themselves, they can be led astray by misleading packaging.<\/span><\/p>\n

Regulated terms<\/b><\/h2>\n

The US Department of Agriculture (USDA) regulates some of what you see on your food labels. There are common phrases you might see on everything from produce to egg cartons to pork chops that reference earned certifications, such as \u201cUSDA certified organic\u201d and \u201cgrassfed.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Other certifications, such as\u00a0 \u201cFair Trade\u201d or \u201cCertified Humane,\u201d are administered by organizations dedicated to a specific cause such as animal treatment or farming standards. Some certification programs are more rigorous than others, requiring more proof, more frequent updates and in-person inspection. Others are relatively lax. But where there\u2019s a certification, there\u2019s usually also a website where you can learn more about who regulates it and what their evaluation standards are.<\/span><\/p>\n

Legally, standards are not static. In June of this year, <\/span>the USDA announced<\/span><\/a> it would launch a review process to determine if it needed to establish more thorough regulations for producers claiming to sell beef raised without antibiotics. The <\/span>Food Labeling Modernization Act<\/span><\/a> is a Senate bill that would push for stricter monitoring of words such as\u00a0 \u201cnatural\u201d and \u201clocal\u201d on labels. In September, the Center for Food Safety <\/span>filed a lawsuit<\/span><\/a> against the USDA for a lack of clear GMO labeling.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

As confusing as evolving legal standards are, things get even murkier once you look at labels that are legal but not standardized, such as \u201call-natural,\u201d \u201clocally grown\u201d and \u201ceco-friendly.\u201d (To learn more about these terms, review our starter guide here<\/a>.) There can be an economic incentive to add these words and phrases to food labels. For example, <\/span>a joint study<\/span><\/a> between McKinsey and NielsenIQ found that many consumers will pay more for items they perceive as sustainable. In <\/span>another study<\/span><\/a> published in 2022, a survey administered to 1,000 people revealed that 89 percent of the participants who purchased an item with an animal-welfare-related claim on it consciously did so because they thought it implied higher animal welfare standards\u2014whether the claim was regulated or not.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Fake farms vs. real farms<\/b><\/h2>\n

In 2016, popular British grocery store chain Tesco <\/span>made the news<\/span><\/a> when it was determined that some products it depicted as coming from local, smallholder farms were, in fact, imported. With names like Woodside Farms and Boswell Farms, the branding conjured up the image of a fresh, single-source and local product, sparking criticism that the grocer was misleading consumers.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Dr. Alison Barnes, a senior lecturer at Western Sydney University, <\/span>examined this phenomenon<\/span><\/a>, known as Tesco\u2019s \u201cfake farms,\u201d and how terms such as\u00a0 \u201cpremium,\u201d \u201clocal\u201d and \u201cauthentic\u201d convey confusing messages to customers.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cLanguage is quite slippery, generally,\u201d says Barnes. \u201cLanguage is never a stable thing.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Screenshot
Screenshot of Tesco Woodside Farms product. (Image: Lena Beck)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The meaning of different words evolves over time, shifting in what they mean to customers. She points to the word \u201clocal\u201d as an example.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI think it is enshrined in law in quite a few places,\u201d says Barnes. \u201cBut then the constraints as to what that enshrines or what you can and can’t do with that, or what it actually means, varies quite a lot.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

In the US, that\u2019s true\u2014the USDA defines local as within the state where the food is produced or within 400 miles of its production point. Depending on how someone has interpreted that word, the product you\u2019re buying could be from down the street or from hundreds of miles away.<\/span><\/p>\n

The consumer brings meaning to the label as well, through interpretations and associations they have with certain words.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI think both the law and our differing perceptions of the meaning of certain words, in certain contexts, leaves a bit of a space for designers to explore the power of those words to tell certain stories,\u201d says Barnes.<\/span><\/p>\n

Storytelling is an effective way to market products, as emotional connections, even subliminal ones, can sway buying decisions.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe can’t help but do that\u2014we read things into things. Designers understand that. And that’s what designers work with, and they try and tell the story of a brand in a way that will resonate with people.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

For Tesco\u2019s fake farms, the imagery had clearly been created digitally. But the design evoked a handmade style that felt reminiscent of a traditional farmhouse, creating an idea of a personal connection between the producer and the consumer, although there never was one. This isn\u2019t illegal, and in fact, Tesco <\/span>still sells these brands<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

In Beavercreek, Oregon, Chase\u2019n Eggs Farm sells goose and duck eggs directly to customers, either through delivery or farm pick-up. Aimee Chase, who started the business, hired a designer to help with their logo.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cMy family and I were trying to come up with some creative logo that featured a duck and a goose because we sell both eggs,\u201d says Chase. \u201cBut also that reflects our property. We have so many trees on our property.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

The resulting image, a duck and a goose, framed by evergreens, conjures up a small family farm, just like the Tesco brand label. The difference is, for Chase\u2019n Eggs farm, this picture is an accurate reflection.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Collage
Collage of images from Chase’n Eggs Farm. (Photography by Aimee Chase)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Designing for truth<\/b><\/h2>\n

Dr. Rick Schifferstein is the director of the Food & Eating Design Lab at the Delft University of Technology. He works with other researchers and designers to improve people\u2019s interactions with their food. Schifferstein\u2019s research into food labels has included <\/span>one study<\/span><\/a> that found that meat labels linking meat consumption with poor animal welfare discouraged customers from buying the product. But, in general, it doesn\u2019t need to be an explicit claim to sway a customer. Even the feel of the packaging, he says, can inform the associations the consumer makes with the product. In the supermarket, consumers might not even realize how the words, designs, colors and textures used in the design are influencing their buying decisions, especially when confronted with multiple options on the shelf. Decision-making in the supermarket is very fast, says Schifferstein.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Angela Larisch, strategy director for <\/span>Murmur Creative<\/span><\/a> in Portland, Oregon, says that often what she sees with the brands she works with is not intentional deception but a lack of clarity.<\/span><\/p>\n

Murmur Creative designs branding and packaging for its\u00a0 clients, many of which are food and beverage companies. Part of what it\u00a0 does is help companies cut through buzzwords to get specific about the information they want to convey. For example, when food companies describe their product as \u201cclean,\u201d Murmur Creative will dig into what that actually means to them and how to communicate that to consumers.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cEven though they’re saying, \u2018oh, it’s a clean product,\u2019 and they’re not meaning to mislead anyone, they might be doing it just because there’s so much ambiguity to these terms,\u201d says Larisch.<\/span><\/p>\n

Being specific, says Larisch, conveys more information about the product, which adds value for both the brand and the consumer. When they do focus groups, they consistently see people gravitate towards specificity.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201c\u2018Only five ingredients\u2019 is generally a stronger claim than \u2018clean,\u2019 which people don’t know what it means,\u201d says Larisch. \u201cPeople gravitate to things they understand.\u201d\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The graphics or design can be more misleading than the actual words, says Larisch. For example, if the design of an item is green or has plant leaves on it, \u201cpeople will assume that it’s organic, they will assume that it’s natural,\u201d says Larisch. \u201cYou’ve never made any claim. But that would be very misleading. And it happens all the time.\u201d In <\/span>one study<\/span><\/a>, the inclusion of nature imagery in advertising made consumers more likely to accept false environmental claims that they wouldn\u2019t believe otherwise.<\/span><\/p>\n

But while design can be used, either intentionally or unintentionally, to convey misleading messages, it can also be used to communicate accurate information truthfully about the brand or product. One of the brands Larisch and Murmur Creative have been working with is called <\/span>Scratch and Peck Feeds<\/span><\/a>, a chicken feed brand.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Screenshot
Screenshot from the Scratch and Peck Feeds website displaying the new logo from Murmur Creative. (Image: Lena Beck)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cThey are a company that’s been around for a little while, they’re very natural and homegrown, they started in somebody’s garage, I think. And so they’ve got this kind of wood blocky feel, it feels a little bit homemade, but it also feels really premium,\u201d says Larisch. \u201cYou could assume or infer the story of the brand from the logo without knowing anything about them.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Back at SweetRoot Farm in Hamilton, Noah Jackson says that when people want more information about what\u2019s on his egg label, they just call him at the number on the carton and ask. He encourages it, because the sense of community it fosters benefits the farm, too.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe get lots of questions and lots of emails, and lots of people showing up,\u201d says Jackson. \u201cWe’re grateful for that.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

This story is part of ‘Phonies, Fakes and Food Fraud’, a special Modern Farmer series. See the full series here<\/a>.<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

SweetRoot Farm is pitched squarely in the middle of a long and narrow mountain valley, framed by the Bitterroot Mountains on one side and the Sapphire Mountains on the other. The 10-acre farm outside Hamilton, Montana is run by Noah Jackson and Mary Bricker, who dedicate four irrigated acres of pasture to their laying hens. 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