{"id":145877,"date":"2022-03-11T14:31:05","date_gmt":"2022-03-11T19:31:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/?p=145877"},"modified":"2024-08-02T11:39:10","modified_gmt":"2024-08-02T15:39:10","slug":"ukraine-turkey-red-wheat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/","title":{"rendered":"Honoring the Ukrainian Roots of American Wheat"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Every slice of bread has a link to Ukraine\u2014and not just because the country is a major wheat exporter. What we eat has biological ties to both Russia and Ukraine, because our breadbaskets are woven from the same wheat. I\u2019ve been steeped in this kinship as threats recently turned to war, and my friends and colleagues in the baking and grain community shared with me emails full of heartbreak and history.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Richard Scheuerman, an educator with contemporary and ancestral ties to the region, <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.palouseheritage.com\/blog\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">wrote<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">: \u201cIf you\u2019ve ever eaten a slice of bread, you can thank Ukraine. That\u2019s not an exaggeration. The flavorful grains that transformed the North American prairies during the nineteenth century into a continental breadbasket were varieties native to Ukraine\u2019s famed Black Earth districts of Crimea and Galicia [what is now southeastern Poland and western Ukraine].\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<h6 style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>[RELATED: <span style=\"color: #008000;\"><a style=\"color: #008000;\" href=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2021\/02\/a-grainshed-rises-in-the-northeast\/\">A Grainshed Rises in the Northeast<\/a><\/span>]<\/em><\/h6>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Our daily bread\u2014that high-rising, sandwich-hugging, butter-loving loaf\u2014would not exist without the Turkey type wheats that German-Russian immigrants brought to the Midwest in the late 1800s. Prior to this, American breads were made from soft wheats, rye and corn\u2014cereal grains that don\u2019t have the kind of gluten that everything from simple sandwich loaves to bagels, challah and hoagies require.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Turkey wheats found a home here because they moved with people who knew and grew this particular staple crop. This variety of wheat has roots in Crimea, a peninsula that is recognized as part of Ukraine, which was once under Turkish control\u2014hence the grain\u2019s name. It earned German Mennonite stewards in 1770, after Catherine the Great promoted settlement, promising the group they could keep their pacifist values and language. When regime change and conscription came knocking again, these people needed to find a new home. America had room\u2014not open space that was innocently discovered but, rather, land that was brutally taken through the forced removal of Indigenous peoples.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Such land clearance and railroad grants helped invite the first large settlements of Mennonites in <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.kshs.org\/kansapedia\/turkey-red-wheat\/16789\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kansas in 1874<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Over the next 25 years, Turkey wheat went from subsistence food to major crop; early plant breeding efforts crossed Turkey wheats with others to fight plant diseases, and Kansas became the wheat state. As farming industrialized, these genetics didn\u2019t leave the food system. In 1971, Kansas celebrated a century of this wheat by launching a cross <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/www.jstor.org\/stable\/3741420\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">named Centurk<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As interest in American food customs and traditions has developed, farmers, bakers and millers have helped bring the heritage variety, Turkey Red, out of the archives, growing preserved samples from tiny plots to larger and larger acreages. Now, Turkey Red flour is available for home and professional use. The emails I\u2019ve been reading acknowledge the legacy of this grain, and they make a bridge that\u2019s broader than the normal empathy one might feel in the face of war.<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_145884\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-145884\" style=\"width: 800px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-145884\" src=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/3579754229_ba36e9d6fa_c.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/3579754229_ba36e9d6fa_c.jpg 800w, https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/3579754229_ba36e9d6fa_c-461x346.jpg 461w, https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/3579754229_ba36e9d6fa_c-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-145884\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><em>Photo by Wesley Fryer via Flickr CC.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">On a listserv for a national bakers\u2019 guild, Randy George, from <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.redhenbaking.com\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Red Hen Baking<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in Vermont, talked about Redeemer wheat, a variety bred in the 1800s that has familial genes with Turkey Red. He also shared fond thoughts of working with Ukrainian women at <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.grandcentralbakery.com\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Grand Central Bakery<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in Portland, Oregon in the mid-\u201990s. They were refugees from an earlier conflict in their homeland.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.janiesmill.com\/\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Janie\u2019s Mill<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, which grinds grains from Janie\u2019s Farm in central Illinois, sent customers a note about being the \u201cdirect beneficiaries of countless generations of Ukrainian wheat farmers.\u201d In service of that\u00a0direct connection, the mill is sending profits from sales of Turkey Red grains and flour to World Central Kitchen, which has been <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/wck.org\/news\/stories-from-ukraine\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">providing hot meals<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in the region to feed the more than two million refugees that have fled Ukraine since the attack began in February.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Baking instructor Mitch Stamm <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/thermaldeathpoint138.substack.com\/p\/hope-for-peace-love-and-bread-in?s=w\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">shared a poignant dispatch<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> about a Ukrainian baker he met in France at the Mondial du Pain, a prestigious baking competition: \u201c<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Originally from Kharkiv, Bogdan Krasnoperov lives and works as a baker in Odessa. Exposed to land, air, and sea attacks, both cities are vulnerable, practically permeable.\u00a0As an 18-60 year-old male, he is registered and prepared for military service. While he waits to be called up, he and the cooks that work for a private business are working without wages 10 hours per day baking bread and preparing food for soldiers and journalists. Exhaustion has registered little effect on his voice; it remains still, resolute. Baking provides a fleeting respite from the horror, exacerbating it at the same time. His wish to do more for people and for peace in Ukraine grows stronger and more desperate each day.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<h6 style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>[RELATED: <span style=\"color: #008000;\"><a style=\"color: #008000;\" href=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/war-in-ukraine-impact-on-us-agriculture-and-food-system\/\">What the War in Ukraine Means for US Agriculture<\/a><\/span>]<\/em><\/h6>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Putin\u2019s invasion in Ukraine echoes Stalin\u2019s 1932-33 Holodomor, a forced starvation of millions of people in southern Russia. What will happen now is unknown, but it is sure to involve grain, since Russia and Ukraine represent <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2022\/03\/01\/opinion\/what-the-war-in-ukraine-means-for-the-worlds-food-supply.html\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">29 percent of global wheat exports<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, and countries that rely on these stocks are already struggling.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The Ukrainian flag is modeled after the country\u2019s fields of golden wheat and sky-blue skies. Our amber waves of grain owe much to theirs, and times like these reveal the substance in our symbols.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><em><a href=\"http:\/\/amyhalloran.net\/\">Amy Halloran<\/a> is the author of <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/bookshop.org\/books\/the-new-bread-basket-how-the-new-crop-of-grain-growers-plant-breeders-millers-maltsters-bakers-brewers-and-local-food-activists-are-r\/9781603585675\">The New Bread Basket<\/a><em>, and lives in upstate New York.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u2018If you\u2019ve ever eaten a slice of bread, you can thank Ukraine.\u2019<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1821,"featured_media":145878,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":[33278],"meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[33068],"tags":[33273,33218,33079],"article-theme":[],"class_list":["post-145877","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food","tag-biodiversity","tag-culture-heritage","tag-plants-crops","format-article"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v25.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Honoring the Ukrainian Roots of American Wheat - Modern Farmer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u2018If you\u2019ve ever eaten a slice of bread, you can thank Ukraine.\u2019\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Honoring the Ukrainian Roots of American Wheat - Modern Farmer\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u2018If you\u2019ve ever eaten a slice of bread, you can thank Ukraine.\u2019\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Modern Farmer\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/ModernFarmerMedia\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-03-11T19:31:05+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2024-08-02T15:39:10+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/shutterstock_1421951492.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1000\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"593\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Amy Halloran\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@ModFarm\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@ModFarm\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Amy Halloran\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Amy Halloran\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/#\/schema\/person\/d35dd24130afb14b19e9def4a9411c60\"},\"headline\":\"Honoring the Ukrainian Roots of American Wheat\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-03-11T19:31:05+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2024-08-02T15:39:10+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/\"},\"wordCount\":896,\"commentCount\":8,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/2022\/03\/ukraine-turkey-red-wheat\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/modernfarmer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/shutterstock_1421951492.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Biodiversity\",\"Culture &amp; 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