However, with a little cover, most farmers have a variety of crops to pick from. Quick-growing selections, soil conditioners, and hearty roots and greens are some of the best for cooler seasons. Depending on what is chosen, there may be tending to do even as winter draws near. 

It’s important to know which plants work for your farm and region. And if you’re farming in a temperate region of North America, there’s a strong likelihood you have many options. 

Consider Season Extension

If you haven’t implemented season extenders on the farm yet, it’s worth considering them. These allow you to grow beyond terminal frost dates. Their built-in complexity is completely up to you. 

Low tunnels are an easy thing to add to crop rows of plants that are frost-tolerant, but won’t survive a hard freeze. The tunnel is usually covered by frost cloth. The structure promotes heat within the tunnel that protects the soil underneath to a degree. 

Cold frames are also an option, and you can make one of these with repurposed windows. They offer crops a more durable solution for cold protection. Cloches, too, are a way to keep plants warm in the cold, but they typically cover one to two plants at a time.

When you decide to include season extension on the farm, get your plans together earlier in the year, in time for preparations to begin in fall before frost occurs. 

Crops for September

From root veggies to hardy greens, all the way to cover crops, there are plenty of ways to continue growing even as the weather cools and frigid temperatures set in. Take stock of what you need on the farm, and add any applicable crops. 

Cover Crops

There are three types of cover crops to consider planting in September. Winter-killed crops are perfect for growers with cold fall and winter seasons, as the freezing conditions that come on kill off the crops before the season ends. The resulting debris protects and conditions the soil below, depending on which crops are chosen. 

Winter-hardy crops survive through winter, and are terminated manually in spring. Attention should be paid to whether or not conditions exist that allow the crop to survive the colder seasons. Then the crops can be chopped and dropped, or crimped. 

Mixed covers offer multiple benefits, each determined by the type of seeds in the mix. Some are meant to go dormant through cold, and others are killed by frost. 

Beets

Root veggies like beets are an incredibly cold-resilient crop to grow. In areas where the cold comes later, or doesn’t come at all, successions of beets sown a couple of weeks apart offer food and revenue all winter long. Start in September, and continue sowing through March in this case. 

In colder areas, protection in the coldest season is needed. Any will work, as most beets withstand light frosts even without it. In the very cold parts of winter in areas where winter is serious business, cold frames help. 

In areas where cold protection isn’t present, sowing a crop of beets now is just fine. Look for varieties with maturation periods that are shorter, or harvest baby beets before the hard freezes roll in. 

Lettuce

Supple and quick-growing lettuces are an easy win in late summer to early fall. Most varieties have a short number of days to maturity. Iceberg types usually don’t need more than three months for full formation. Baby greens are easy for farmers in every region. 

Because lettuce is always in high demand, there is so much to pick from. Growing through frost is possible, too, as even supple greens have a little cool-weather tolerance. Just ensure the more sensitive greens have a cover when there’s a freeze.  

Hardy Greens

If lettuce leaves are too sensitive for your farm in fall, there are tons of hardier selections. Collards, kale, chard, and even spinach have a greater tolerance for cold. In areas where they won’t withstand the strength of the first frost, baby greens are just fine. 

Asian greens like mizuna, bok choy, and tatsoi have short maturation periods and are usually ready within one to two months. Arugula can handle temperatures down to the low 20s (~-7°C). Planting a mix of greens together gives you options for what you’ll bring to market. 

Giving them protection through late fall’s chill keeps them going, and could help them perennialize in areas where the soil doesn’t freeze over winter. 

Radishes

Just as beets are an option for fall growing, radishes are too. There’s little to stop you from being successful with smaller varieties like French Breakfast or Cherry Belle. These are ready within a month, meaning even farms with cold winter looming can glean another yield. 

In protected areas, or those with milder cold seasons, larger, more specialized varieties are an option. Farmers with a couple of months at their disposal can grow black radishes, which offer a spicier flavor profile and a striking appearance in whatever dish they’re added to. 

Sowing successions of smaller types is a great way to gather a ton before it’s impossible to grow them, whether due to cold or summer’s oncoming heat. 

Grains

For centuries, grains have been a staple of cold-weather growing. For instance, the Whole Grains Council recognizes September as Rice and Wild Rice Month. While these plants are very different, they both are viable crops to sow in September. 

If you want to get more out of your cover crop, oats are a good crop for farms in areas that get a cold (but not too cold) winter. Rye is a resilient crop even in colder areas. Winter wheat is a standby for growers all over and provides cover for fields, protecting the soil when freezes arrive.

Pick a grain that adapts well to your region and matures in time for you to do the work before spring picks up. 

Cool Season Grasses

Ranchland is not exempt from this list. It is possible to have a year-round supply of forage for livestock. Plant ryegrass in September to provide for herds in colder seasons. Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue are other viable options. 

The only thing to note before planting these is whether or not you’re working with NCRS. If you want to maintain a regenerative ranch, always plant cool-season native grasses and avoid those that spread into natural areas, pushing out other plants. 

Garlic

Bulbous garlic is an easy win in home gardens and farms alike. Due to its size, it can be interplanted with beets and greens. Even orchards benefit from garlic plantings. While farms with later frosts should wait to plant, those with a quick onset of frost can plant now. 

It will take roughly nine months for garlic to fully mature, but it’s worth it. Specialty bulbs go for quite a bit in the commercial realm. Having some to enjoy yourself is wonderful too. The great thing about garlic is that it keeps on giving. You’ll have plenty to share, sell, or keep for seed to plant next fall. 

Carrots and Parsnips

In mild cold areas, overwintering carrots and parsnips is easy, especially with the added shelter of a cold frame, cloche, or low tunnel. Farms in northern regions need to pay close attention to days to maturity, ensuring they’ve factored in the first frost date. 

Plant them at the right time, and you’ll have tons of roots to enjoy. Where freezes are few, successions yield pounds and pounds of taproots waiting for the farmers’ market or the specialty produce buyer. These are highly nutritious and desirable veggies. 

In regions with a quick onset of cold, choose varieties that produce smaller roots. 

The post 9 Crops to Sow in September appeared first on Modern Farmer.

Since then, soil preservation via conservation programs has come to the fore. With strategies like planting prairie strips, soil nutrient loss is reduced. This is possible for farms with large acreages, and for smaller market farms too. Prairie strips do not need to be installed all at once, and can be introduced to the farm in stages. 

There are plenty of other reasons for planting prairie strips – soil nutrient loss being one factor. These strips work beyond the soil level, controlling pests, preserving ground water, providing more revenue to the farm, and much more. 

Why Install Prairie Strips?

The practice has roots way back in history, but we can thank soil scientists, conservationists, and various agricultural extensions for its recent promotion and development of standard techniques. The benefits are simple: prairie strips improve water quality, conserve water resources, provide wildlife habitat, and reduce soil erosion. 

By converting 10-25% of your farmland into these strips, you can grow large areas of a single crop without the same risk of nutrient loss that you would have without them. Add to that a regularly rotated and cover- cropped area, and you’ll have increased yields. 

Prairie strips filter water and hold it in the ground where it is needed. Any fertilizer runoff is contained within the strip and stays out of sensitive waterways, where it can cause detrimental effects. This keeps nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil on your farm, rather than running off somewhere else where you can’t access it. 

Prairie strips improve biodiversity on your farm. Increased biodiversity has multiple benefits to crops. These strips attract more wildlife that remains within the strip, rather than your cropland. Furthermore, agricultural pests will be thwarted by beneficial predator insects that rely on prairie plants. 

Aside from water preservation and preventing nutrient loss, prairie strips invite more pollinators to your farm. This means they contribute to better fruit and grain set and higher yields.    

How To Install Prairie Strips

Soil nutrient loss prevention is as easy as putting in the work and spending around $40 per acre. If you’re working with a ton of acreage, there are programs available to assist in cutting the cost. 

Size

To install prairie strips, soil nutrient loss is best controlled with at least 10% of the land outfitted for this purpose. Of course, you can install more than 10%, but just this amount will do plenty of good. Considerably high slope and low soil quality warrant more to have the desired soil and water retention effects.  

Each strip should be 30 feet wide to make your farm eligible for the USDA Conservation Reserve Program. This width also makes it possible to use current commercial farm tools within and outside of the strip.  

Placement

While there are many ways to install these strips, the basic recommendations for where to put them hinge on how your farm is laid out. Look for steep hills, slopes, and areas where water tends to erode the soil. Place strips between crop fields or on the borders of your farm. 

If there are areas where yields tend to be low, plant prairie strips. Soil nutrient loss will then be reduced, and your yields should increase. You’ll begin to notice significant increases as year three comes along. 

Timing

Before you prep and plant your prairie strip, consider the last time you used herbicide in the area (if this is a regular practice on your farm). Consult a label database to determine what the half life of that herbicide is. You want to plant outside of that timespan. 

Before you prep the area for planting, choose which plants you’ll include in the strip. Many native seeds are best sown in fall to overwinter and sprout in spring. Warm-season grasses can be planted in spring, and cover crops have varied timings. Knowing these helps you set a schedule for strip prep and planting. 

The Setup

To begin, farmers should till and remove any perennial weeds that proliferate nestled in the dense foliage of a prairie strip. Some sources recommend tilling twice to reduce perennial weeds. Remember, if any herbicides are used to complete this task, avoid seeding within the half-life of that herbicide. 

Many agricultural extensions recommend pre-planting with soybean, corn, or cover crops. There is debate among conservationists about whether or not this is the best practice for prairie strips that will contain native plants. While pre-planting provides benefits to the soil, eliminating them among native plants can be difficult. They have a tendency to seed out and can be hard to manage.

After terminating the cover crop – if this is the route you’ve chosen – seed at the appropriate time at a rate of at least 40 seeds per square foot. If you have extra seed, it’s ok to overseed, and sometimes it’s beneficial in instances where re-emerging soy, corn, or cover crop is expected. 

Maintenance

If you’re dealing with tons of annual weeds, and they seem to be outcompeting the natives in the first year, mow the strip to six inches three or four times as they reach one foot tall. Follow up with one or two mows in the second year. Once the strip is established, remove top growth. 

If you prefer to utilize fire in your prairie maintenance, wait until the second fall after planting, and don’t burn more than half of the strip at a time. Any cattle safe plants that grow during the year can be harvested as feed. The strip could also double as a hayfield if the plants within work for that.

If you are interested in being a part of the larger effort to regenerate native ecosystems, you can harvest the seeds of the plants. Here is where weed control from the outset is most important. Contact a local native seed dealer to see if you can contribute to their stock. 

The post How to Fight Soil Nutrient Loss with Prairie Strips appeared first on Modern Farmer.

These viruses cause mottled leaves and, eventually, plant death. Necrotic strains damage foliage as well as tubers, which rot from the inside out. Not only is the virus spread via infected tools and plants, but its main vector is aphids. Therefore, farms that haven’t dealt with the virus yet can prevent it by controlling aphids in their potato crops. 

Integrated pest management denotes that one of the best ways to keep pest numbers down is to plant wildflowers. These attract aphid predators and limit their ability to spread viruses in areas where they may be common. 

The primary predators of the potato aphid are lady beetles, carabid beetles, spiders, syrphid flies, green lacewings, and midges. Plants that attract these are great preventatives for potato viruses that aphids spread. Thankfully, many of them double as ecologically restorative.  

Sunflowers

Any type of sunflower attracts lady beetles. Both adults and lady beetle nymphs feed voraciously on aphids. They don’t discriminate between young and mature aphids, either. Farms in proximity to sunflower fields are likely to have fewer problems with pests, as they attract a slew of predators in the insect and animal kingdoms.

If you want to attract the green lacewing, which also feeds heavily on aphids, but mostly in its larval phase, plant Maximillian sunflowers. These North American native plants provide excellent habitat for beneficial predators. They also spread and grow easily, blooming from summer through the milder parts of fall. 

One note on some sunflowers: they take up a lot of space. Plant them where they can spread out, and where they won’t overcrowd other crops or natural areas. Use them as a conservation feature on your farm where there’s plenty of room to grow. 

Yarrow

Of course, it would be a mistake to mention integrated pest management without including yarrow. One of the most vigorous and lovely native plants, yarrow is a beneficial insect powerhouse. It attracts many predators of aphids, and others too.

Plant yarrow among other plants, but provide some space so it doesn’t bully them. It can be grown among other plants (unlike the Maximillian sunflower), but it can be aggressive in optimal environments. However, a strip of yarrow between potato rows is a great idea. 

Intermix yarrow with other native plants, and you have prairie strips that buffer cultivated land, adding to restoration efforts or initiating them.  

Milkweed

Known as the premier host for monarch butterflies, milkweed also attracts lady beetles. But that’s not where the benefits end. Hummingbirds are aphid predators, and they love to sip nectar from milkweed flowers. Bees provide pollination to milkweeds and any crops nearby. 

Like yarrow, it makes sense to plant milkweed alongside your potatoes, keeping them out of the same bed. Milkweed will do well on its own or in a strip of prairie plants. Its stems contain a toxic sap that can irritate skin, so keeping it in an area that receives little human intervention is a good idea. This gives monarchs the space to do their thing. 

Buckwheat

As a cover crop, buckwheat is an excellent choice. It’s a quick-growing living mulch, suppressing weeds as it grows. It can grow in poor soil, requiring little amendment to thrive. Its roots also scavenge for phosphorus. This makes it a good candidate for interplanting with potatoes. 

Its flowers are a huge syrphid fly attractant, too. These guys are another viable predator that keeps aphid numbers down when potatoes are flourishing. With numerous commercial sources for buckwheat, it is one of the more accessible plants listed here. 

For farmers who want to use regenerative practices on their farm, there are numerous native species to pick from. 

Native Grasses

For carabid beetles, the best attractors are native grasses. Ranchers benefit from using natives in their pastures, and even more so if those pastures are rotated in a restorative model. This means it’s possible to have multiple revenue streams on the farm if there’s room for them – from cattle and from food crops.

Regardless of whether or not grazing animals are a part of the farm, including native grasses will reduce aphid numbers when they grow nearby. Plant them in strips or in close proximity to your potatoes. By doing so, you bring in aphid predators, and also host butterflies, skippers, and more. 

Grass seeds are food for birds in winter, and deer appreciate native grasses as well. If having white-tailed deer on your farm for leasing to hunters is something you’ve wanted, here’s your chance. 

Wild Mustard

You’ve probably seen some kind of weedy brassica plant on your farm. What if you learned these are a food source for syrphid flies? Mustards are employed as cover crops, but they’re also one of the primary attractants for hoverflies. This includes some cultivated mustards, too. 

Hoverflies don’t just feed on aphids. They prey on scale insects and thrips too. Flower farmers who have trouble with western flower thrips will get a boost from planting different mustards. Many are beautiful and work as fillers in cut flower bouquets, too. 

Queen Anne’s Lace

A common sight on the flower farm is Queen Anne’s lace, and hoverflies love this one, too. While it’s not advisable to plant this one in areas where it is invasive (which are many), it is a good food source for aphid predators. 

Because it can be vigorous even outside its invasive range, your best bet is to plant it in strips near your potato rows. Give it space, and if you decide to interplant it with another flowering species, opt for one that can handle the intensity of Queen Anne’s lace. 

Penstemon

Beardtongues are similar to foxgloves in their floral shape. They have a similar habit and are often one of the first flowers to bloom in spring. Coincidentally, green lacewings love these flowers, and the adults will enjoy the nectar of the plants while their larvae will rid your potatoes of aphids. 

This is another perfect candidate for North American regenerative farms that want to include restorative practices in their food cultivation. There are over 280 native species to choose from, and all commonly bloom from early spring up to summer. 

If you’re planting these, include them in strips that have longer blooming plants in them to keep predators on the farm, rather than searching elsewhere for another food source. 

Saltbush

In the western half of North America, farmers benefit from planting Atriplex canescens, or fourwing saltbrush. This Amaranth family member is a source of food for green lacewings, which flit between it and potatoes to consume nectar and predate. This plant has a long history of use among indigenous peoples as a dye and a fuel source. 

Farmers should plant multiples of this plant to keep it going on the farm. There is a ton of genetic diversity between plants, and there is little consistency between plants with male and female flowers. Therefore, many plantings will ensure survival. 

Include this one on your potato farm to cultivate a piece of native plant history!

Winecups

Another spring to summer bloomer, winecups are a boon for potatoes due to their ability to bring in green lacewings. They tend to do quite well on borders, making them a good choice for farms that have a smaller cultivation space, and lots of wild areas on the edges. 

You’ll bring in a ton of bumble bees with this one, making it possible to produce potato seed (as opposed to tuber seeds) if you want to. Even if that’s not your end goal, lacewings keep the aphid populations under control, preventing viruses that devastate crops.  

The post Fight Potato Viruses with Wildflowers: 9 Flowers to Try appeared first on Modern Farmer.

Composting is a great way to reduce waste on your farm. It limits the amount of waste going to the landfill, thus reducing methane emissions. Due to its nutrient-filled composition, it’s a perfect way to fertilize many crops. It improves soil structure in the process and helps your soil retain water. 

You can throw most organic waste products into your compost pile. Animal manure, silage, plant debris, kitchen scraps, and leftover mulch and soil all apply. For this list of recommendations, it’s best to avoid adding meat or dairy. For all composting systems, keep diseased plant matter and invasive weeds in the garbage. 

Turn Regularly

One of the best and easiest ways to keep your compost pile aerobic, or full of oxygen that speeds the decomposition process, is simply to turn it regularly. Regular turning increases oxygen and the temperature of the pile. Hotter piles break down materials more quickly than colder ones. 

While it is completely possible to have finished compost in a cold pile, it’s not the best way to do it quickly. So consider the size of your pile as you develop a turning schedule. A general rule is that piles should be turned every three to four days. 

Another aspect to consider is the temperature. If the pile temp drops below 104°F (40°C), it’s time to turn. You can use a compost thermometer to assist you here. Or you can speed things along by turning regularly. Grab a broadfork, turn your bin, or simply use a shovel. Bring the center of the pile outward, and the outside of the pile inward. 

Aerate

Turning is an excellent way to keep your pile aerated. But there are other ways to accomplish aeration, which often occur as you set up your pile or bin. One way to do this is to pop a PVC pipe in the center of the pile with holes drilled along the length. This adds oxygen to the pile as it decomposes. 

If you’re building a bay compost system, leave some room between the slats to promote passive aeration. These openings also allow insects in that consume the matter in the pile and provide even more decomposition. The same goes for worms and grubs.

Any bins you use should have holes in them to allow airflow through. Without airflow, you’ll force the pile into an anaerobic state. This leads to bad smells and a much slower rate of decomposition (if any at all). So ensure there is oxygen getting into contained bin systems. 

Water

The proper moisture content helps matter break down more quickly, and is absolutely essential to speed up compost toward a more usable format. As you turn your pile, keep the hose handy. If you notice dry areas, spritz them with water. 

As you add your layers of greens and browns, water. Moisture will speed up decomposition by providing mobility to the detritivores within. These organisms, both insect-sized and even smaller, are responsible for consuming the matter in your pile and ensuring nutrients move around. 

Don’t add too much water, or locate your pile in an area with standing water. Too much of a good thing will slow the process of decomposition. Keep it in an area that drains freely, and water regularly to keep the microbes moving.  

Additives

Have you ever heard that you can speed up compost by adding specific materials to your pile or bin? Grass, leaves, and inoculants are just a few additives that kick-start a semi-dormant compost pile. Kitchen scraps can also induce a more active composition. 

It’s important to maintain the right balance as you add these, though, as balance is key. Just like too much water can mess up the pile, so can too much green matter, or inoculant. As you add greens, remember a three-to-one ratio of browns to greens protects that balance. 

Most likely, if you’re dealing with slow compost, you may not have the right balance to begin with. Adding some greens will get you there. As for inoculants, find one that fits your required nutrient profile, and follow the directions on the bottle. 

Ensure It’s the Right Size

If your compost pile is too small, it won’t break down. If it’s too large, it will be hard to manage. Instead of piling everything in one spot, keep your piles or bins at least (and not much more than) one cubic yard (3x3x3 ft). 

Build bays to 5x5x5 feet, so they’ll fit one cubic yard inside each of them. Multiple bays accommodate multiple piles. Thankfully, most pre-made bins, or even trash cans repurposed for composting are already the right size. Keep your pile the right size, and you’ll speed up compost in no time. 

The post How to Speed Up Your Compost: 5 Recommendations appeared first on Modern Farmer.

The technique’s success is surprising, as it shows that crops don’t need daily watering and pampering for a good yield. There are several crops that work in a dry system, many more than we can cover here, with many tailored to your region’s conditions. 

Before next summer, consider growing some of the best dry farming crops. When this strategy is employed appropriately, the plants are resilient and still offer delicious produce that is desirable in any market. 

What Is Dry Farming?

The contemporary understanding of dry farming was developed in areas with 20 inches or more annual rainfall. However, the practice has expanded beyond these regions to any region, as farmers grow crops within the constraints of their environment. That includes farms near desert ecosystems.

The origins of the practice in the Americas lie with the Hopi peoples of northern Arizona. By selecting crops that are already adapted to a region with 10 inches or less of rain per year, it’s not only possible to grow nutritious food, but it’s also likely to result in flavorful crops. This is not a novel case, however, as people all over the world have farmed on dry land for centuries.

Some systems rely on early-season precipitation, while others simply don’t have water as an input and rely on a hardy plant that grows deep roots. Paramount to most systems is soil that is deep, arable, and that drains well. It should have good water-holding capacity. This is the foundation of a good system in areas where rainfall is more common.

7 Best Dry Farming Crops

When you’re trying to decide which of these crops will work in your dry system, think about your regional geology and rainfall. If you live in an area where rain is plentiful, it’s likely you’ll have more options. In an area where rain is scarce, choose crops that handle drought with ease. 

Tomatoes

Let’s start with an unlikely dry crop. Tomatoes do not have a reputation for being drought-tolerant. However, in areas that receive sufficient spring rains, they are a great crop for dry farming early in the season. 

At UC Santa Cruz’s dry farms, tomato plants produced ample amounts of smaller fruit. The secret to dry farming in this instance was trapping soil moisture in May by lightly tilling just as the rains rolled in. At transplant, seedlings weren’t watered, which prompted them to develop deep roots. 

These roots penetrate the layers of soil, touching the areas below where moisture is available. Thus, dry farming tomatoes was possible! But it’s more suited to areas with deep, moist soils and substantial spring rains.  

Pumpkins and Winter Squash

Depending on the season, dry farming pumpkins and winter squash is possible. What you need in this case is a mild climate with pre-season rains that ensure the soil is already moist at planting. Till very little at the start of growth, and provide a deep layer of mulch. This is the best way to get most winter cucurbits started. 

However, there are gourds that grow in the desert with very little water. Bottle gourds and luffa (which is a highly heat-tolerant plant) are perfect for dry farming. Soaking seeds ahead of time gives them the moisture they need to get started. Plant them ahead of the driest parts of the year, with enough rich soil to get them going. 

Most of all, give them the space they need to grow, which prevents them from sucking moisture from nearby plants. A wider spacing is recommended for crops that are more supple, planting them as if they are perennials that will spread over time. 

Melons

Farmers at OSU managed to grow a healthy crop of ‘Pike’ melons and watermelons in 2013, in moist soil covered with a hefty layer of mulch. In this case, the rains of the Pacific Northwest and the moisture-trapping mulch were what made dry farming these crops possible. 

By 2018, trials were completed, and farmers found the fruits were sweeter and more flavorful than those grown with regular irrigation. They had uniform size and color. What it took to grow them was good observation skills ahead of the season to ensure conditions were right for planting.

Grapes

When we think of grapes, we often think of regions with sandy or rocky soil and an arid climate. Grapes are some of the best dry farming crops that can really thrive in these conditions, and growing them without irrigation is possible. Not only has this been a practice across the most famous viticulture regions in the world, but there are newspaper articles from 1874 showing that it was practiced in the United States as well. 

The most important part of growing wine grapes is root establishment. Frequent irrigation keeps the roots near the soil line, rather than delving deep into the layers where moisture is present. Today, people use drip irrigation to ensure roots develop in their first season, then they rely on pruning and maintenance to grow a great product in subsequent seasons. 

Olives

Much like grapes, olives typically grow in regions that are dry and rocky. That makes them another entry in the category for best dry farming crops, and a perfect option for drought-prone areas. While the crop will not be as robust as it would in rainier years, olive trees will produce good yields without additional irrigation. 

Much like grapes, olive tree roots reach deep into the earth, accessing groundwater below. They are adapted to hot regions that experience low rainfall year after year. One note on olives is that some species are classed as invasive in the regions where they’re likely to be dry farmed. Ensure you’re planting a non-invasive olive before you plant an entire grove.   

Grains

A number of different grains have been cultivated for ages in drought-prone areas. Sorghum and millet are two that can handle periods without irrigation. Durum wheat and barley are also quite tolerant of drought. 

The dense coverage of grain crops keeps moisture in the soil for longer. Many are adapted to historically hot and dry regions as well. Some of the best dry farming crops are grains.

Tepary Beans 

If you’re growing in an intense, dry region, it’s hard to get a good crop of beans once summer rolls around. Most varieties drop flowers in the heat. But tepary beans, which have been cultivated for ages by people in the American Southwest, are perfect for dry farms. 

They can handle no irrigation, and still set flowers and form pods in heat up to 105°F (41°C). Tepary beans also have deep roots that reach groundwater and don’t require surface irrigation to thrive and produce. This is an excellent choice (and perhaps the most historic on this list) for dry farming. 

The post The 7 Best Crops for Dry Farming appeared first on Modern Farmer.

Regenerative practices on farmland are not new. They have been carried out by people across the world for centuries. One important aspect of maintaining a regenerative agricultural system is nutrient cycling. It’s a closed system that emulates natural cycles inside the bounds of a farm or pasture. 

Most literature about nutrient cycling is related to livestock, where keeping nutrients within the bounds of the pasture is important for maintaining its regenerative potential. However, nutrient cycling is a process that occurs in wild areas and can be fostered on farms without livestock. 

If we view soil organisms as another kind of livestock, we get a better sense of how nutrient cycling practices work – even in home gardens. There are easy ways you can enact a nutrient cycle in growing spaces, as well as those that work in livestock systems. 

What Is Nutrient Cycling?

The basic definition is this: nutrient cycling is how nutrients move through a system via processes of consumption, excretion, and decay. The most common attribution of the term as it relates to farming is with ranchlands. However, any system – even those without livestock – can cycle nutrients. 

Below Ground

In the space within an inch of most plant roots, there are millions upon millions of living organisms that move nutrients around. This is the rhizosphere, where the most essential nutrient exchange takes place. 

This is the foundation of a healthy farm, where bacteria, fungi, archaea, and other micro-organisms work together and feed on one another. It’s a scene present in natural spaces too. In order for elements to break down and be ready for absorption by plants, we need these organisms to convert them into a form suitable for uptake.

Above Ground

And then there is the air and water. In order for plants to grow, feed livestock, or simply develop fruit, they need to be able to transform water and nutrients into usable ones. Once they’ve done this, their tissues can expand and grow above and below ground. 

At the same time, they excrete nutrients back into the earth, where the soil organisms can benefit. Similarly, they exude different compounds into the air and nearby water, which are pulled into the atmosphere via condensation and evapotranspiration. Animals do this in a more visible and obvious way, as their manure fertilizes the earth.

Living in the soil are micro-organisms, but there are also macro-organisms. Earthworms and beetles tunnel through the soil, adding tilth, and feed the soil with their excretions. 

How to Nutrient Cycle: 5 Steps 

It’s not hard to have a more cyclically-nutrient-rich farm. By including various established regenerative practices, you’re able to keep it going without much need for intervention. After you put a few practices in place, there’s an element of passivity that sets in, allowing you to focus your energies on more pressing needs.

Till Less

One way to keep nutrients in the soil is to preserve your topsoil by tilling less often. This not only keeps the soil on your farm, but also keeps the organisms below intact. There are different ways to farm without tilling as often as a conventional farm would from season to season. 

One way to do this is to simply add material to the top layer of the soil. A hefty dose of well-rotted compost or manure topped off with a substantial layer of mulch is great for planting, and offers no disturbance to the. Using hay bales as planters is yet another way to do it. 

There are intermediary means of tilling less – for instance, using no-till planting tools that create a furrow just deep enough to plant seed. Gently broadforking the earth between seasons is another means of low-till cultivation. For larger plots, rotary power harrow or slicer planters work, too. 

All of these protect the most important part of the nutrient cycle: the soil. This reduces erosion, builds rich soil over time, and ensures that water and nitrogen are captured within the bounds of the farm, rather than escaping. 

Feed the Soil, Not the Plants

Conventional practices focus on inputs that pump up crops, making them more desirable for the marketplace. But using hefty doses of synthetic fertilizers can cause problems for soil and the surrounding environment down the line. Eutrophication is an example of nutrient leaching that comes from overfertilization of crops, largely with synthetic inputs. 

Instead of focusing solely on the crops you’re growing, start with a soil test that tells you which nutrients are needed to have healthy soil at the most basic level. Then, consider the additional nutrients needed to bolster your market share. 

When you’re inbetween seasons, give your soil a break and foster nutrients by planting cover crops. Before they flower, chop them and drop them on the soil surface. As they break down, they’ll feed the soil and mulch the surface, preserving the soil’s structure and top layer. They also protect local water quality by absorbing surface water that builds up in heavy rain and snow.

Plant Native

One of the best ways to keep nutrients within the farm or pasture is to plant native. That means wildflower strips in between crop rows or on the borders of the cultivation space. It also means native forage plants that not only bolster the local ecology, but also return to the pasture once they’ve been digested. 

Native plants aren’t maintenance-free, but they don’t require the kinds of inputs or management that non-native plants do. Native forage plants in particular offer more nutrition to livestock than non-native forages and feeds do. 

They also keep the farm’s system closed by inviting in local wildlife. These wildlife offer services to the farm, like pest control, soil maintenance, and even hunting fodder if you’re working on a conservation-intensive rangeland. Native plants are primed to work with local soil organisms in a more efficient manner, as they’ve evolved to do so over millennia. Planting them promotes higher soil fertility. 

Leave the Leaves

One obvious example of a pristine nutrient cycle is the process of growth and decay that occurs in forests. Trees in deciduous woodlands grow supple green leaves that turn in autumn and eventually fall to the earth in winter. 

The leaves insulate the forest floor, and detrivores (organisms that feed on decaying matter) convert fallen leaves into nutrients that can be used by trees and plants. They also offer habitat to overwintering insects and amphibians, who nestle in through the cold to emerge again in spring.

You can mimic this by leaving the leaves along the more forested areas of your land. This keeps the carbon and nitrogen in the farm, rather than escaping into the air via a brushfire or disposal. If they need to be moved, throw them in your compost pile, or shred them and mulch your winter beds with them. 

Leaf mold is an incredible resource for farmers who grow from seed. A small part of a seed starting mix has a better structure with decomposed leaves included. To make your own leaf mold, fill your raised beds with fallen leaves, or throw them in large contractor bags and let them sit over winter. Then add the crumbled nutrient-rich matter to your seed starting mix at no more than ⅙ of the mixture. 

Rotate Pastures

If you’re a rancher, one of the most beneficial practices you can take up is pasture rotation. This conserves all of the nutrients on the ranch and gives the land a bit of a rest as it attempts to recover from a heavier grazing period. Instead of dealing with low-quality livestock, simply get into the rotation. 

To implement this on your range, you’ll need to divide the acreage into evenly sectioned pastures. Fencing and water access are important here. You’ll also need a food source, but if you plant native forages, simply letting the pasture rest and reseeding every other year will suffice.

In rapid-growth seasons, give each pasture at least 20 to 30 days of rest before bringing livestock back to that section. While they’re out, any pasture maintenance that needs doing can be carried out. In slower growth seasons, give your pastures 40 days each to rest.  

Your local Natural Resources Conservation Service can help with implementing a rotational system, and they can advise you on which forage plants are best for your region. Some farms are eligible for financial assistance as well, so don’t forget to ask about that. 

This is a perfect way to keep nutrients inside the farm’s system. By providing your livestock and the soil organisms with what they need to thrive, they provide you with a valuable product. 

The post Nutrient Cycling on the Farm: 5 Practices to Implement Now appeared first on Modern Farmer.

Because this plant has been cultivated for thousands of years, there are numerous varieties with affinities for different regions. That means, as long as your warm season lasts at least three months, there’s a vine suited to your climate. Even if you don’t have a season long enough, with the right climate controls, greenhouse cultivation is possible. 

Tracing the history of this beloved plant, it’s pretty easy to see why it has been in cultivation for so long. And learning its benefits to human health will come as no surprise. But that, too, is a worthy endeavor. 

Sweet Potato History

The wild parentage of our contemporary sweet potato originated somewhere between the Yucatan and the Orinoco River in Venezuela. While accounts and genetic analysis show that colonization had much to do with its dispersal into Europe and the East Indies, they also indicate Mesoamericans managed to introduce the plant into Oceania naturally.

Through hybridization (of which kind is up for debate), wild plants slowly evolved to form multiple cultivated species, one being I. batatas. There are other Ipomoea species that purportedly emerged as a result of basic cultivation and hybridization. Today, both edible and ornamental varieties are grown all over the world, standing up to the tests of time and elements.   

Health Benefits

Recently, people have turned to sweet potatoes as a potato replacement in their diet, due to its ability to provide fiber and starch without the same glycemic leap. These tubers also improve the absorption of certain fat-soluble vitamins and increase healthy liver functioning and iron uptake.

There’s an established history of using the vine’s leaves for medical reasons too, with cancer-fighting and anti-inflammatory properties identified in recent studies. Extracts of the whole plant are used to reduce the effects of diabetes, and have potential for antimicrobial effects as well. Overall, sweet potatoes offer a lot of health benefits in a dense calorie package. This makes them a good crop for survival gardens. 

They’re also highly heat-tolerant, as they originate in tropical areas. In regions where summers extend year after year, sweet potatoes are a great crop. They’re also an excellent candidate in areas where groundwater is scarce, and can even be included in dry farming. 

Varieties

In areas where the temperate to warm season is short, opt for a cultivar with a quick maturation period. If the mild season is about three months, it’s possible to grow a crop of Centennial, which has the typical orange flesh and skin of your standard type. Georgia Jet matures in the same timeframe, but has reddish or purple skin accompanying its orange interior.  

Mid-range varieties, like Beauregard, with its purple skin and orangey flesh, are ready in around 110 days. Similarly, Sumor is an interesting one, with tan skin and light yellow interiors. Vardaman is a bush variety that doesn’t require a ton of space, and has the typical interior with golden skin.

For long seasons, Jewel is perfect, with a pretty standard look. This one takes up to 135 days to mature. 

Growing Tips

As mentioned in the previous section, not all cultivars require a huge amount of space to grow a healthy crop. Some types are vining, and some are bush varieties that have limited growth in the season. For both varieties, prepare soil in a three to four foot area per plant. 

Spacing

You can grow both types in containers, but use 20-gallon pots or larger, planting no more than four to five slips per 20-gallon container. Use a similar measurement in the ground. You can trellis vining types to ensure you have the room to cultivate a crop large enough for the market. You’ll get one to two pounds per slip, so calculate your planting based on this metric. 

Plant out your slips when soil temperatures reach 70 to 80°F (21-27°C) and air temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C). Get them out as soon as these conditions arise if you have a short season, as these plants are sensitive to cool weather. 

Soil

Soils should be amended with well-rotted compost, but the earth doesn’t have to be rich to produce a hefty crop. You need plenty of good drainage and ample water when the slips are establishing. After that, they can handle some dryness, but regular, consistent watering keeps your crop uniform and prevents cracking. Auto drip irrigation with a rain sensor is a great option.

Harvest

When they’re ready to remove, gently dig them from the ground, using a shovel to pierce the ground around the bed perimeter. This keeps them safe from damage. You need a spot to cure them before they head to market. Give them a one to two week cure in an area at 80°F (27°C) with good air circulation. Then transfer to a root cellar or spot that’s around 50°F (10°C) for long-term storage. 

Protect your crop from pests like flea beetles, cutworms, scurf, and black rot. The first of these is staved off by a good row cover. The other two are best prevented by properly culturing your crop. Be ready to harvest some huge tubers, along with standard sized ones when harvest season comes.

The post The Sweet Superfood You Should Be Growing appeared first on Modern Farmer.

One such development has been the genetic modification of corn plants to produce shorter varieties. Although they’re still in development, these smaller plants have proven highly beneficial for improving crop yields in various conditions. 

As trials continue and more varieties are developed, it’s likely that shorter varieties will be the norm in certain regions. Since smaller farms can grow them on smaller plots and produce the same yields, it may be preferred across the board. 

Short Variety Origins

When a huge windstorm knocked out 16% of the corn produced in Idaho in 2020, scientists from Bayer, along with university crop geneticists and Stine Seed began genetic breeding of standard types. 

With prior wind damage to tall stalks between 2001 and 2016 coming to 800,000 hectares, they decided to reduce corn stature to limit the damage done by winds. In trials that have been in play for a few years now, scientists removed genes that engender height in plants, while keeping those that promote higher production, leaf density, and kernel formation.

This resulted in the short varieties that are in trials among 300 farms today. These show promise, with high potential for similar and sometimes increased yields, as well as flexibility in different environments. 

Benefits of Shorter Corn

The lower height of these new varieties has benefits that funnel into higher yields. When these make it to the commercial realm, farmers who skipped this popular crop due to the space needed to grow it might have a change of heart. 

Better Growth and Pollination

Short corn has a dense stature, with decreased space between leaf internodes (where the leaves grow from the stems). This makes silks grow closer together, giving them an easier time taking on pollen from nearby plants. The distance needed to blow pollen from silk to silk is much less. 

Even though the genes for the height of more standard varieties isn’t present, the plant’s growth rate remains the same. With more supple leaves in shorter succession, there is an increased chance for them to take in sunlight, resulting in better growth. 

Stronger Stalks

With better growth and less height, stalks are denser and stronger than standard corn. Anchoring into the soil increases with higher stalk density. The stem transports nutrients and water from the soil to other parts of the plant, producing vigorous cobs. 

When normal stalks are weighed down by cobs or rain, the stalks of shorter types stay upright and resist lodging. This circumvents a common problem in dense plantings of standard varieties. Upright stalks mean better disease resistance, as those that fall and lay in the field rot and harbor bacteria and fungi. 

Easier Access

For farmers who treat their crops with pesticides, a shorter stature eliminates the need for aerial applications. These types of treatments come with high risks to wildlife and to adjacent farms, including but not limited to overspray and danger to local insects, which are a farm’s initial defense against pests. 

Instead, farmers can walk among the stalks and apply by hand or via a tractor. Applying pesticides this way offers more control, and the ability to target pests more efficiently, limiting risks to human and non-human neighbors. 

Denser Plantings

Smaller farms may avoid growing corn altogether due to the amount of land it takes to grow it. However, with short corn, intensive planting is possible. That means farms with a mid-sized range can opt for corn in their upcoming season. Farms that already grow this crop can grow more.

In these densely planted areas, better growth and structure contribute to higher disease resistance. Sillage planters get a lot out of these increased densities, as there is much more material to feed to livestock. Spacing that would be applied to the usual sillage varieties can be increased. The quality of sillage is improved by more productive growth, too. 

Better Adaptability

Shorter varieties adapt to environmental pressures, which is perhaps the most beneficial aspect of growing them. High winds, less fertile soils, and later seasons are all considerations for farmers. Having a short variety that can handle these pressures is incredibly important. 

While varieties are limited at this time, there are a few available on the market. Touch base with your local extension office to get started. 

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This is why adapting to the climate and employing heat protection strategies is crucial for farmers today. In most cases, all this takes is a little adjustment and more awareness about when the heat will arrive. How long it will stay is another worthy consideration.

By employing a few useful techniques and tools, farms make their usual revenue possible even in extremes. These methods also bolster other crops from heat stress if things get even hotter out there. Put these strategies in your back pocket in case a heat dome looms. 

What Does Heat Stress Look Like?

Plants express heat stress in numerous ways. Some wilt in the middle of the day, turning their leaves downward to prevent sunlight from scorching their surfaces. Flowering and fruiting crops may drop flowers or fail to set fruit. In extreme cases, scarring and defoliation occur. 

When you notice a plant wilting just as the sun rises, you are getting closer to what is known as the permanent wilting point, which is when plants can only absorb 35% of the soil’s capacity to hold water. Therefore, it’s important to formulate your soil appropriately so it can hold enough moisture to allow your plants to take it in at a sufficient rate. 

The result of continued permanent wilting is plant death. There are ways to avoid this, and not all of them require installing a completely new irrigation system on your farm. Many require small adjustments, with careful planning. 

Strategies For Protection

From the minute to the more intensive, dealing with heat stress via new routines and techniques builds heat-resilience quickly and easily. Think about which of these is most relevant to your farm and your practices. Then, plan how to implement them. 

Mulch

Adding a layer of mulch is a great tool for both heat and cold resistance. This layer protects the soil surface and aids in temperature regulation below. All of this funnels directly into reduced evaporation at upper soil levels, which preserves precious topsoil and reduces soil erosion.

An organic mulch provides the benefit of added nutrients to the soil as it breaks down. Wait until your crops are mature enough for transplant, and surround them with one to three inches of mulch, keeping it away from the plant’s base. Don’t add too much, which may result in compacted soil and prevent water penetration. In areas where soil compaction is an issue, a thinner layer is better.  

Intensive Plantings

In nature, outside the cultivated center of the farm, plants grow closely together. The prairie is an excellent example of how dense plantings create insulation against heat stressors. As more tender plants grow closer to the surface, they are protected and bolstered by taller ones, which provide a shade canopy. 

On the farm, we might not want to have as dense a planting as we would in wild spaces due to increased incidences of pests and diseases. But we do want to include more intensive plantings than our seed packets instruct to cover the soil and protect it from sun erosion. 

This is where companion planting comes in. If we’re growing a tall plant with shallow roots, including a low- growing plant as a living mulch is a way to protect both plants and the soil from heat exposure. Increasing our frequency of a single planting and condensing our spacing acts similarly, if not quite as efficiently. 

Adjust Irrigation Techniques

If you’ve been hand watering on the farm, it might be time to switch things up. While this is a completely viable and acceptable way to grow plants, trying new ways of watering in more experimental plots is a good idea. If you don’t have the space to experiment, try out these methods in temperate seasons when stressors aren’t present to see what works for you. 

Furrow Irrigation

While not the most efficient irrigation method, furrow watering is an ancient and reliable way to water. Today, over 23,000 acres of American farmland is irrigated this way. The technique simply involves flooding small trenches that run along rows of crops with water. It’s a cheap and easy-to-execute way to improve the irrigation process. 

There are things to consider when you use this method. Firstly, trenches shouldn’t exceed .5% grading to limit soil erosion. Gentle slopes are usually enough, which is part of what makes this an easy way to water your crops. Sandy soils benefit from deeper furrows, while clay soils do best with shallower ones. 

When it comes to the actual act of irrigating, you can get as technical as you want. It could be as simple as filling the furrow at one end with a hose or using a gated pipe to quickly flood the furrow. The water pressure is important, though, as furrows retain water best at 15 to 25 gallons per minute. Furrows should be fairly long, at about 100 to 600 feet. Like depths, shorter furrows are better for clay soils, and longer ones suit sandy soils. 

Drip Irrigation

A properly installed and managed drip irrigation system is a more efficient and hassle-free way to water crops. Because there’s no splashing from the soil surface, diseases are less likely when crops are drip irrigated. And timers make the process of watering much easier. 

Drip irrigation kits are easy to find at major garden and farm outlets, with setup ranging from very easy to more technical. Drip tape attached to a main hard line is one of the easiest ways to include it. There are more complicated PVC systems that use flow regulators and pressure valves to channel water on more difficult terrain as well. 

This type of irrigation can save up to 80% of the water used in other irrigation systems. All that is required is the initial investment, the setup, and continued maintenance. Include a timer, and your farm is semi-automated, with just a check here and there needed to keep things in good shape.

Shade Canopy

Even heat-tolerant crops take a beating in a sudden heat dome. A mechanical strategy, like a shade canopy, is a great option for summer crops, regardless of how sensitive they are. Find a freestanding canopy that allows a portion of the sunlight through. One that is transportable gives you a modular solution to the heat. Or drop a large shade cloth over your hoop house.

If you don’t want to foot the bill for a commercially-produced shade canopy, repurpose tarps and burlap. As long as you get at least 30% light penetration, but not more than 60%, you’ll have the same production with the right shielding to help your plants through the hottest parts of the year.

Plant Heat-Tolerant Varieties 

This strategy takes the most planning, but it’s the best way to keep your farm going even when it’s an inferno outdoors. Find varieties and plants that handle the heat with ease, and grow them. Check to see the predicted weather patterns for summer, and determine which of these works best for your climate. 

Get your seeds started at the right time, and combine the heat lovers with any of the strategies above, and you’re producing even though it seems like nothing should be happening at all out there. It is becoming more and more imperative to familiarize yourself with heat and drought-tolerant plants. Have a look through your seed catalog this fall to get a head start. 

The post Protecting Crops from Heat Stress: 5 Pro Strategies appeared first on Modern Farmer.

While spraying pesticides on your farm initially has the desired effect, it’s not the best long-term option. Instead, using integrated approaches that include cultural, mechanical, and biological controls is better, with insect predators as the primary beneficial force.

Many of these predators feed voraciously on pest larvae, stopping them from reproducing and keeping their numbers low for good. You can certainly purchase some of these and release them in your garden, but they’ll only stay for the buffet. They need plant hosts to call your farm home. 

Thankfully, many native plants are perfect for some of the best beneficials. Native plant species may even grow along the borders of your farm naturally. In that case, it’s just a matter of fostering them and bringing them closer to your crops. 

Here are 11 of the most amazing predatory insects, and the plants that host them. Plant some of these species (or better yet, a diversity of species) to attract these beneficial predators. All of these helper bugs will flourish with the right plantings, especially if you reduce or eliminate your use of pesticides. 

Hoverflies

These flies are all members of the family Syrphidae. They may look like wasps or bees, but they are flies, and they feed on aphids, thrips, mealybugs, leafhoppers, and various larvae of slower-moving insects. Depending on the species, they look different, but many have yellow and black stripes.

They feed on nectar and pollen as well as the pests mentioned above. Adults lay eggs among masses of congregating pests and when they hatch the larvae get to work. Some pupate in the area where they’ve been feeding, while others head to the soil to become adults. 

The key to attracting these beneficial predators is to plant nectar hosts that bring in the adults. When they realize your farm is a good place to feed on nectar and pollen, they lay their eggs. Some of the best hosts for them are carrot family plants, like Queen Anne’s Lace, dill, fennel, and coriander. Alyssum is another good one. 

The most common native plant they love to feed on is yarrow. You will find many of the bugs on this list adore this plant, and due to its widespread range, this is perhaps one of the best plant allies for your integrated biological controls.  

Tachinid Flies

Some predatory insects are parasites, and use pests to host for their young. The flies in the Tachinidae family are one parasite it’s good to have around. They’re all tiny, under one inch, and most are gray or black. Some are bee or wasp mimics, similar to hoverflies. All of them have a bristly and shield-like appearance. 

Sometimes adults lay eggs on pest-infested plants, and the eggs are eaten and taken in by the host. Other species deposit their eggs on or inside the body of pest larvae. The larvae of tachinid adults then parasitize the pest larvae and kill them, sometimes creating little pest mummies in the process.

These flies control various beetles, earwigs, grasshoppers, true bugs, and sawflies. They are some of the most important beneficial predators for your management arsenal. Attract them with native asters and rudbeckia, as well as carrot and dill flowers. The composite flowers of yarrow attract them as well.  

Trichogramma Wasps

Tomato farmers have probably seen a hornworm with long rows of eggs sticking out of their backs. This is a result of the parasitic wasp from the genus Trichogramma. These wasps are so tiny, you may not see them moving around your tomato patch. But they’re there!

Topping out at just a few millimeters long, adult wasps are yellowish or brown with red eyes. Unlike tachinid flies, Trichogramma wasps parasitize the eggs of various caterpillars, depositing their eggs within the pest’s egg. Sometimes this prevents the caterpillar from hatching, and other times the larvae develop alongside the caterpillar, killing it in the process. 

If you have a healthy crop of cabbage, corn, and tomatoes, it’s likely these beneficial predators are around, waiting to knock out some of the most damaging pests. These include corn earworm, cabbage moths, and tomato hornworms. Codling moths, pinworms, and other worms beware. 

Once again, yarrow brings the adults in and gives them a nectar source to feed on while they reproduce. Composite flowers, like asters, daisies, and chamomile are great attractors too. Mint family plants, specifically Pycanthemum and Monarda species are great native options. Plant Eurasian species in containers to prevent their spread and ultimate takeover. 

Predatory Mites

If you farm in a dusty and dry region, you’ve probably dealt with a host of different mites. Spider mites and broad mites are common pests in veggie patches and in orchards. Varoa mites and bird mites are two that bee and chicken farmers need to be aware of. And every farmer has had their share of chigger bites. 

Predatory mites feed on all of these guys. They’re way too small to be seen with the naked eye (though if you look really hard you might see them), and they are probably already doing their thing on your farm. Each mite only feeds on a couple of pests per day, but they lay so many eggs they can knock out huge swaths of pests quickly.

A number of cultivated plants attract varying species of predatory mite. However, they also appreciate plants that have hairs and pits on their leaf undersides. Many natives fall into this category. This gives them a place to shelter from their predators. They are also attracted to a host of cultivated plants due to their tendency to have pestilent mites. 

Predatory Thrips

You have probably heard of thrips, and their tendency to silverize the leaves of various plants they feed on. Did you know there are predatory types? These thrips feed on small caterpillars, other thrips, aphids, and scale insects. They come from two types: sixspotted thrips (Scolothrips sexmaculatus) and black hunter thrips (Aeolothrips spp.). 

Both of these thrips are less than 1/15th of an inch long. They either have a dark body, or in the case of the sixspotted thrip, they have a light yellow body and three brown spots on each of their front wings. They are voracious beneficial predators that are particularly useful in orchards. 

Bring them in with Gerber daisies, feverfew, marigolds, and sunflowers. Similarly, native asters are perfect attractants. Bidens species are a great option as well.  

Beneficial Nematodes

In areas where root-knot nematodes are a problem, a good treatment is beneficial nematodes. Applying these to soil in temperate seasons a few weeks apart is an effective control of certain beetle larvae as well. But what if there was a way to bring them into your garden? 

As members of the roundworm group, these nematodes move around under the soil surface feeding on whatever they come into contact with. They do this either by waiting for the pest to arrive or hunting it down. The most common species are Steinernema carpocapsae and Heterorhabditis bacteriophora. There are other species available to farmers via the market as well.  

In areas where soils are healthy and full of microbial life, good nematodes are present. Unlike the other beneficial predators here, you don’t need to plant to attract them, but you do need healthy soils. Using compost on the farm instead of synthetic fertilizers is one good way to bring them in. Planting cover crops to enrich soil is another way. Mulching to protect your soil through extremes also helps. 

Green Lacewings

The larvae of green lacewings simply cannot be satiated! They must feed on soft-bodied pests incessantly – until it’s time to become adults, that is. While ladybeetles are the number one aphid predators, these guys are likely number two. They gobble up colonies with ease. 

If you’ve seen little masses of eggs that look like they’re suspended on silken wires, you’ve seen lacewing eggs. The larvae look like little alligators with mandibles. Adults have a thin green body and transparent wings. There are numerous species, and these differ from the brown lacewing, which is a beneficial insect but not as useful for pest control. 

We’re not trying to be redundant, but yarrow is one of the best hosts for this pest predator. Cultivated plants like dill, fennel, and cosmos are also good hosts. Asters, sunflowers, and coreopsis are great natives and attractants. Verbenas are an excellent option. 

Pirate Bugs

If you have aphids, psyllids, whiteflies, thrips, or spider mites, minute pirate bugs are on your side. These bugs in the Orius species consume tons of these pests, and prey on eggs of other pests while they’re taking out the nymphs and adults. They’re ovular, and roughly ½ to ⅛ of an inch, with wings that cross making an X shape. 

As generalists, they feed on the pests mentioned above, but they consume almost any pest. They love to nest in leaf litter and bark, and often emerge first among other insects in spring. If you want to attract these guys, you can keep some areas of the farm natural. Have a few shade trees around, and you’re set. 

Plants that attract these beneficial predators include vetch, alfalfa, corn, and crimson clover. Natives like elderberry, willow, and goldenrod feed adults as they sip on nectar until they get to the next pest. Some pirate bugs bite people, but they don’t cause more harm than a mosquito bite.  

Ladybugs

Pro beneficial predator number one is everyone’s favorite: ladybird beetles or ladybugs! There are so many species of either type present across North America, and they love to feast on tons of different pests in their larval, nymph, and adult stages. Mites, aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs are in danger when ladybugs are on the case. 

There is a difference, however, between ladybugs native to the continent, and the Asian lady beetle, which is an invasive species. The latter of these tend to infest homes and swarm, causing allergies in some people, and generally damaging structures when numbers are too high. They have a distinguishing M shape on the base of their heads. This is how you can tell them apart from native species. 

The larvae of the good guys kind of look like green lacewing larvae, with an alligator-shaped body and black, yellow, orange, or blue coloring depending on the species. Adults have the characteristic red body and black head. 

Ladybugs love milkweed, which is a great boon to your farm, as it brings in and hosts monarchs, too. Look for a species native to your region for the best results. Coreopsis also supports ladybugs, and so do native coneflower species like Echinacea and Rudbeckia. In companion planting, sweet alyssum is a wonderful attractant, as well as dill and marigold. 

The post How to Attract the 9 Beneficial Predators You Want on Your Land appeared first on Modern Farmer.